(Capsule) contemporary fashion trade show which took place last month inside a historical synagogue called the Angel Orensanz Center in New York City, clearly attracted brands and therefore buyers looking for an alternative to Project (which went on at the same time on the other side of town). Created by the agency BPMW (brand pimps and media whores), it was an intimate show that created buzz mainly for its cool location: a two-floored synagogue built in 1849 with stain glassed windows, vaulted ceilings, creaky wooden steps, a platform for the choir reserved instead for an excellent selection of magazines, and a basement intended not for church coffee hour, but for photo shoots, and a meeting place for fashionistas complete with fresh coffee, homemade muffins, and tables with small buckets of colored pencils (an excellent feature). Each attendee also received a small gold capsule necklace as a keepsake/badge.
Brands included Social Atelier, Clae shoes, WoodWood from Berlin and Copenhagen, Henrik Vibskov and Pa:nuu from Denmark, Umbro by Kim Jones from the UK, Fremont from Los Angeles, Super Sunglasses from Italy, New York City jewelry designer Gabriel Urist, and Aussie brand Ksubi (once known as Tsubi), among others. The range of collections at the show indicated, as the producers intended, to provide a snapshot of the different personalities and styles that are a part of upscale contemporary fashion scene today. In many ways, because we had just come off of Bread & Butter in Barcelona, the show felt like a mini B&B, but missing the streetwear.
Highlight brands included Fremont from Los Angeles and their uniquely tailored jackets, vests such as sweater vests with big buttons, shorts suits, and high-end shirts. As the designer Devon described his collection, “it has a sort of a Palm Springs/Vegas in the ‘60’s vibe with somewhat of a cowboy aesthetic with gingham shirts.” The brand is currently distributed in boutiques such as Fred Segal's and Barneys.
WoodWood which is also a famous store in Berlin and in Copenhagen brought with it a casual style with an interesting collection of jackets such as their recent collaboration with Nike in a turquoise-patterned windbreaker. Generally the line was quite casual and heavy on variations of the color blue. Next door was Henrik Vibskov also from Copenhagen with a collection that mixed up angled patterns, bright colors for a rave-African feel, but also a whole array of accessories including big scarves. The more unique patterns in the collection were the African-inspired colors and patterns, especially in suits and shirts. The brand’s owner, Henrik, is also an interesting person in that he takes his inspiration from the other aspects of his life, such as travel and playing drums, including his recent gig with his band Grentemoller in Glastonbury.
Gabriel Urist is a jewelry designer known for creating NBA-inspired hoops, basketballs, caps, and now gold and silver Timberland-styled boots as necklaces. These high-end pieces are often one-of-kind bling created for various athletes and musicians and were the most street representation at the show.
With a total of 46 brands, and none with booths any bigger than an 8 by 10 space, the show could have felt cramped, but instead it was cozy, probably because of the amazing vaulted ceilings giving the feeling of space. In addition, like United Trade Show across town, the (Capsule) planners did a good job of creating an interesting floor plan, edited with specific brands next to others to keep the walk-through flow interesting, yet within various themes.
(Capsule) is one of those shows that will probably continue to grow based on the fact that there are high-end contemporary brands, particularly small brands from Europe and Australia, that are looking for an alternative to Project when entering the American marketplace—starting in New York. As the move towards smaller shows continues, which also corresponds with the rise in specialty boutiques, this may be one of those shows, like United, that continues to grow and capture buyers, media, and brands looking for an alternative to the big trade show feel.
Sponsors included Altoids, hint water, 10 Cane Rum, Clinton St. Baking Company.
