Denim: Inside the Vortex of Youth Culture Streetwear--From a European + North American Perspective

After three days at Bread & Butter Barcelona, a fashion trade show known for attracting the most creative manufacturers in denim and denim design, there’s a strong movement towards a variety of different looks: from clean, dark, urban; utilitarian, patched, new stitching, to really thrashed and dirty; to stove-pipe indie. Clearly people are choosing their denim’s and washes to match their mood and this is reflected in sales patterns (see also North American Youth Culture Study 2005 and European Youth Culture Study 2005, Denim sections).

Freesoul, which unfortunately is not yet distributed in the United States, is a denim brand to watch in terms of attracting today’s DIY generation looking for individuality at a reasonable price. Based in Florence, Freesoul is able to keep their costs down because they are a production house of denim and have a background in producing denim for other companies since 1971. Their “be your own brand” theme, including incorporating inspiration from the streets—bottom-up vs. the top-down—is apparent in this season’s collection. As Paolo Dari from Freesoul described it, “We fit to the tribes of the streets because the trends are coming from them—they chose us; not the other way around. And that is how things are going.” In addition, the addition of aspects such as Swarovski crystals for “a shot of light,” according to Dari, plus different pieces of sewed fabrics, attention to stitching and darker fabrics, and complimentary accessories in some styles such as belts, make this the type of brand we believe will continue to do well because it captures today’s youth culture movement towards individualism and creativity.

Freesoul’s popularity on the European scene is mostly in Spain, southern France, Greece, and of course Italy—Mediterranean areas that are interested in colorful pieces and more freedom in choices. The Freesoul line north in Germany, for example, is more basic, masculine, and street. This is an example of a unique approach in marketing denim based on rationalities.

Levi’s introduction of the Redwire jean at Bread & Butter combined technology with denim in that there’s an iPod system in the pocket that you can plug into. However they have a retail price of 200Euros (they’ll be available in September in the U.S.). Similar to Motorola’s collaboration with Burton’s Outwear (see related story), the trend in combining formerly dissimilar industries to reach today’s youth culture continues to inspire new collaborations such as the Redwire jeans.

Levi’s also has a storybook gameplan for the LVC (Levi’s Vintage Clothing), including collectible denim jeans (and outfits) that represent the “Butcher, the Baker, the Candlestick Maker.” For example, the Candlestick maker jeans have wax stuck on them in various dripped patterns; the Baker has a flour-looking design. In addition, they showcased the Tow Rope 501 from 1933. In the Tow Rope limited editions, it’s based on a letter received from a guy who towed his car with a pair of Levi’s in ’33. If you’re lucky enough to get one of these pairs, it comes with a rope and in a vintage gas can.

Outside of the limited editions, some of the progressive styles from Levi’s are the Bluestar—clean lines, darker denim, tight as in stove-pipe-like with red detailing. Designer Rikke Korff however made an excellent move in revitalizing Levi’s urban styles by tapping into the urban seen with darker denims, organic cottons, and twisted seams.

What’s interesting about Levi’s (and Wrangler, Dickies, Carhartt for that matter), are that in the United States, they are considered staple, utilitarian wear. In Europe, the emphasis for these brands is on fashion. People buy and wear them as a fashionable item within their wardrobe.

7 for All Mankind, a brand based in Los Angeles and that we often see the Hollywood-set wearing, are “new” in Europe. It is a luxury brand, as in “Gucci, Prada, 7 for All Mankind…” Touted as the Prada of denim, this could be how they’re perceived because the focus is on the fit foremost. This could also be why young urbanites flock to buy up this brand in both LA and NYC. They are sexy in the fit—thus everything else looks good. We’ll see how this relates in Europe.

Pepe Jeans in Europe have a different look than those targeted in the United States in several ways. For example, in Europe, Pepe has more embroidery, stitching in the pockets, wool and ruffles, even a Victorian gothic appeal in their overall vibe for women. Their denim is high-end Japanese tightly woven, washed in Italy (because they have the best processes), then in some cases, tailored with an English influence inside (striped or patterned fabrics, wool). They definitely have a PRPS-feel and unique washes. Interestingly at the show, Pepe Jeans has an on-site “Pepe Laundry” where you could get a pair of Pepe Jeans and watch the entire process of washing and personalized distressing.

G-Star’s popularity in Europe is astounding. You see the brand’s logo in most major cities and Barcelona was no exception. Each Bread & Butter they host a unique fashion show with this one focusing on the theatre-in-the-round concept. Top aspects from this denim brand were the G-star military look, the use of numbers such as ’96, and new pieces such as green hoodies. Ironically, it was the band that performed that also captured our attention because while the indie look is very much the Thing in the United States, it’s not in Europe. But the band at the G-Star show was exactly the look going on in America. Black and white, stark suits, bangs from one side, straight hair, white, small-collared button-down shirts, high-water black pants and shoes.

Outside of the Bread & Butter show, we had our denim street reporter, Shaney Jo Darden, write up what she believes is also shaping the denim industry. Here’s her report:

Slim, stretch, and clean with front creases for a more sophisticated dressed up feeling are popular such as what’s being created by Citizens of Humanity, for men and women. This brand is pretty mainstream but the fit is great so it does really well.

Baggy, rigid denims with holes and paint splatters for the weekend just-woke-up-Sunday-brunch with friends is very much a part of PRPS [Purposeful Purple Products specializing in African cotton, Japanese manufacturing, and vintage finishes) and Rogan who launched an apparel line called Edun with Ali Hewson wife of Bono from U2, which practices “fair trade” practices and conscious consumerism. You can even get these looks on a budget at Hollister and Abercrombie—however it is these stores that are offering medium price-point “disposable” denim items.

Forward seams for both men and girls are moving in. Back pockets are getting bigger and bigger and brands are paying more attention to pocketing with unique prints, (such as the brand Loomstate and PRPS) and with buttons and trims. Brands are using all different colors and types of buttons on one jean. Also coming up on the fringe side of denim trends are regular plastic buttons replacing metal tac buttons. Brands such as Trovata are doing this. White denim is big for men’s and girls, and colored denim was apparent in many lines at the show.

New brand stitches are among the hottest progressions right now and they are very distressed. This look is red hot, but defiantly a trend just coming into the mainstream.

After many years of not quite getting into the denim market, action sports brands are now doing really great denim. The best ones are Krew, DC, Volcom, and now Nikita. They are even competing with fashion brands doing denim over $100 price points. DC, Volcom, Krew, and Nikita are doing well in action sports-inspired markets because the brands are strong and the teams are strong in their own ways.

With Krew they have a Jim Greco signature pair of jeans that has polka dot pocketing. Jim is a total fashion maven for skateboarding and he’s an insanely good skater. He wears long sleeve dress shirts, which is another trend for young people in North America, coming from the thrift. (He has a polka dot shirt that became one of his signature styles.) To top it off, he wears really tight black pants. Every alternative skater kid in the United States wants this look. He also wears old man hats (he’s a former junkie and still has that look.)

Stovepipe pants are still niche but Levi’s for example are coming out with tighter fitted, darker jeans, as an example of where things are headed. The darker denim trends came from two locations—skate and urban hip-hop culture.

The price point denims such as LEI which ranks relatively high within our data results on in North America for females under 17 were not at the show-for-selected brands, but they are popular mainly because they’re inexpensive and can be found in Macy's, Sears, Penny’s and Millers.

My favorite brands are:

Loomstate

http://www.loomstate.org/flash.html

Their motto is “People who give a shit are sexy.” To me, denim portrays a feeling and an attitude so I like how they pay attention to attitude in styling. The other great thing about this brand is they use organic denim. Being philanthropic is very trendy right now [see also our North American Youth Culture Study 2005, Fashion section]. Regardless, the trend will come and go, but caring about your planet never goes out of style.

Tsubi

My most favorite. They are from Australia. Their denim definitely has attitude. Tsubi is created by three guys who look like rockstars. They have amazing packaging and are totally set apart from other brands. I feel that these are still made in small runs and to me, are collector’s pieces.

On a final note, it’s important to talk a bit about technology and fashion. Technology is also playing a huge role when it comes to denim. Things like Coolmax stretch denim are being used to make an actual “performance jean.” Also laser-finishing allows you to create very fine images, such as adding photographs directly onto the denim itself. I think we’ll see a more of this. Finally, customization of denim continues to be hugely popular worldwide, taking every shape and form: from bleaching, patching, painting, drawing, and crazy patches everywhere. This is how denim is evolving.