United Trade Show held February 13-15 at the Alexis Park Hotel, on the outskirts of MAGIC International Fashion Trade Show, was one of those circumstantial events that afterwards makes you acutely aware of what’s been missing…until now. When Pool and Project were purchased last year by Advanstar (owners of MAGIC), rumors started flying that a new show was needed that could encompass streetwear and the brands, buyers, and retailers who were not quite South Hall, not interested in Pool any longer, but still very much streetwear looking for the next genre of inspiration. Ryan Walker (who used to do Pool) and Rama Mayo saw the whole in the marketplace and cut out their space with United, which premiered last week to a sold-out show and rave reviews from all who participated.
Intended for select brands, but not necessarily high-end like Bread & Butter in Barcelona, or mostly denim such as Project, United is mostly about cut-and-sew upper-end streetwear labels, T-shirts, dresses mixed with vintage and hand-stitched embellishments, music-inspired labels, political, eco-friendly, socially conscious, and statement pieces—from fabrics, textiles, denim, designs, footwear, and accessories. United is for brands with a story and correspondingly individual concepts, which of course attracted equally cutting-edge retailers and buyers—all of whom appreciated the format, vibe, and networking opportunities United provided.
Divided into 3 ballrooms including the Green Room and Gold Room, and a correspondingly cool art show, people could walk easily through the show, talk with the people, or even write up orders outside by the pool area (where United had trademarked pool towels). Brands ranged from Royal Elastics to Cardboard Robot, The Galaxy Riders’ Alien Crew out of NYC, Atwater out of SoCal, House of Deity, Gold Watch, Born Uniqorn, Home Room, Turk & Taylor from San Francisco, Keep Shoes in LA, Focus Denim, Sprfkr, Se_arch + ResQ, KR3W, WESC, and Milkcrate, among others.
A few of the new stand-out brands included Home Room. Al from Home Room explains that he’s a 3rd generation apparel designer with inspiration from his father and grandfather and apparel they created. His collection includes pieces such as the customized hoodie, cut-and-sew lines for summer and fall, all of which is mostly inspired from urban, skate, and hip-hop—or a mash-up culture. Interestingly he had 2 live small snakes in his booth.
Tara from Born Uniqorn explained that her women’s line was inspired from her Dad’s old school paintings from the ‘60’s and ‘70’s. She took the paintings and made feature clothing out of them, creating the concept of colorful, loud graphics but pretty and statement pieces for girls. Born Uniqorn has a “q” in it standing for unique.
Matt from Free Gold Watch is clearly inspired by silkscreen printing and Andy Warhol. The process of silkscreen printing for Matt is what Free Gold Watch is all about, as well as taking inspiration from the artist and making various T-shirts and hoodies off of blanks from American Apparel. Specifically, the hot pieces are the panel canvas T’s and graphics, as well as the accessories bracelets made of silkscreened gold watch bands.
Atwater and their cut-and-sew jackets, grinded-edge T-shirts, shorts, pants, and even board shorts. Combined with exquisite graphics, mix of heavy-weight hoodies with various textures, and inside detailing in board shorts, shorts, and corduroy pants, Atwater had a surf-inspiration but was subtle and clearly onto the next level. Tiger themes and the character MainFrame created by Dean Bradley also added to the fun and irony of the brand. As Scott Madison, the other design director quickly rolled over, both know that the surf industry is in need of upscale new designs from a street level having both come from Billabong and Hurley and seeing the whole in the marketplace for something new.
The Alien Crew was another original. These guys have currently been highlighted in Label Networks’ stories previously (see also The Complex World of Urban Fashion from NYC) as well as the New York Times. The Alien Crew, which is part of the Galaxy Riders scene, is a NYC-based company created by young guys that 4 years ago created a unique style that’s a throwback to the ‘80’s early b-boy but reconceptualized. Combining tight denim pants, angular patterns, bright colors, flattops, big colorful sunglasses, and a Theo Huxtable vibe, they’re completely onto something, as seen by the fascination from street fashionistas out of Tokyo. Known for throwing some excellent parties, through word-of-mouth the Alien Crew has created a growing series of “chapters” of “Aliens” who dress, sound, and create their own scenes as discovered in Atlanta, LA, and Tokyo.
According to Ryan, United had 123 designers on board and are close to being booked for the coming Fall show this August. The show also indicates the latest evolution in trade shows by incorporating more installations and themes, particularly traits that inspire the brands in general such as music, art, a mini film festival, and even a putting green. Most notable perhaps was the live home recording studio space where the Bay Area Hip-Hop Group The Instant Messengers were recording their album “Kill the Image.” Open to all United attendees, the recording studio’s goal was to educate spectators and contributors about the ease of home recording. Participants could be a part of the session and therefore on the next album.
Other installations that provided United with an edge was Program: Repeat--a Film Festival area featuring a small 35-person theatre where people could chill and watch flicks such as Vice by Spike Jonze, David Choo, and Johnny Knoxville, Xlarge, Wing Ko, among others. Hit the Deck, a group installation art show of 100 painted skateboards presented by Synthesis Magazine provided the latest artistic expressions from artists such as Steve Green, Eskimo, Emek, Milano Chow—of which sales of proceeds went to various charities. Cupid’s Noose group art installation presented by Pure Blood is the New Black included paintings, photos, comics, sculptures, and live readings by Jeremy Relph. Finally, United hosted a Golf Clinic and a putting green and the 1st Semi-Annual Table Tennis Tournament.
Sound like a trade show? It is if you’re talking about the future.
